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Bistro Broad is food journalist Kathleen Pierce. She has a nose for news, an eye for design and a stomach that can handle anything fried, baked, blackened or sauteed.

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Tapped out on tapas


I went to Bin 28 Wine Bar in Andover last night and first, I admit, I was a little skeptical. The place was packed, the staff was super friendly, the 3 ounce tasting pour of riesling I started the evening with was pitch-perfect. But when the food arrived in plates and bowls the size of ashtrays, I was worried. Luckily I wasn't packing major hunger, or the effete portions would offend. As it were we had to order 5 "communal small plates" to feel like we accomplished something. Well into its second decade, the tapas trend shows no signs of slagging.

This style of eating is just that — a style. If I've learned one thing lo these many years it's this: Don't do tapas on empty. You go to nibble. I recommend eating before you visit a tapas joint, if you don't want to stay cranky all night. The trick lies in knowing which dish packs actual food. Once I worked my way through the marinated Sicilian artichokes, a hot medley drenched in silky smooth olive oil, I felt better. After sharing three tapas, I was finally being nourished. The Maine crab cake served with tangy, creamy tarragon mustard was expertly executed. Nice crunch on the outside, fresh meat on the inside. Note there is only one cake. Sharable? Debatable.

Wine is the thing here, so why were so many Andoverities ordering cocktails? At a self-styled Napa wine bar with five Enomatics (the first of its kind in Massachusetts) no one should be muddling drinks behind the bar.  I was heartened to find reasonable wine prices. The bartenders (sommeliers?) made selecting wine participatory and fun. Sit at the bar to tap their knowledge. SInce the Enomatics (machines that remove oxygen from wine bottles and pump in argon gas for freshness) change daily, the wine list can't keep up. You'll want to see the labels that are being eno-fied to secure the best sips.

I recommend conducting your own mini tasting with several 3 ounce pours of different vintages/varieites. Bin 28 bartenders are open to experimentation. When I turned my nose up at an endorsed pinot noir, I was free to trade it in for a more palatable zin. Bin 28 will do well. Andover seems hungry for a place to see and be seen. And this is it. The bar scene is hip, but not too hip. Dressy, but not uncomfortable. And there are three rooms to choose from. The geometrically uneven bar is the place to be if your feeling social. Noise level on a busy Wednesday was vibe-y but not oppressive. Dinner is served till 10 and local cheese plates and dessert until 11.





Posted by Bistro Broad at 8/19/2010 4:05 PM | Add Comment

A clam handed debate


The best fried clams aren't always served in saltbox shacks by the sea. The old rule of thumb, if you can't see or smell the ocean, don't order shell fish, no longer applies. I found extremely edible clams last week in an unlikely place — an Italian trattoria in Lowell. It was Restaurant Week and clams weren't on the menu at Ricardo's. But the couple to our left at the bar were oooing and ahhhing over their long-demolished plate of Ipswich clams. For some reason or another,  I had not had a single belly all summer. I used to hate bellies, but when done right, that's were the flavor lies. And Ricardo's are done right. 

I don't need to describe the anatomy of an optimal fried clam to New Englanders do I? It's like a perfect poker hand, you know it when you see it. They were creamy where they needed to be, perfectly fried, with just the right touch of seasoning. The tartar sauce, an often over-looked condiment, was near perfection too. Nothing mayo-laden here.

You would never suspect a place where Jack Kerouac used to carouse could rival Woodman's this time of year. True there are  no seagulls crying, no saltwater mist in the air, just good old fashioned clam digging in an upscaled, comfortable bistro. What's the most unusual place you've dug fabulous fried clams? 

Posted by Bistro Broad at 8/18/2010 4:59 PM | View Comments (3) | Add Comment

Deflation at the plate

It's never been a better time to be a gourmand, or just someone who appreciates a fine meal out. August is to foodies what October is to farmers. Harvest time! With so many incredible deals flooding my Twitter stream, it's hard to keep up with the deep discounts. We are in the middle of two restaurant weeks, Greater Merrimack Valley ends Sunday when Boston Restaurant Week picks up. Now comes this eye-catcher from Summer Winter in Burlington. At Friday night date night this week $35 gets you a feast of greenhouse dips —  roasted garlic, yellow tomato and basil and a fiery blend of garden peppers served with  flat bread and homemade crisps. Lots of chefs are making their own crackers instead of relying on Lavish to do the trick. I couldn't be happier. The results are fresh, artisinal crackers that make any charcuterie sing. For secondo choose between a chicken stir fry with Asian greens, peanuts, tofu, eggplant, dates and jasmine rice OR salmon, corn and shallot salad with a very refreshing plum watermelon salsa! They had me at plum salsa. Never heard of fruit salsa like this before. I must try it. Dessert is greenhouse thyme and almond short cake. Love that Chef Tyson is really taking his greenhouse seriously. This menu tells me Summer Winter is not just giving lip service to this grassroots trend, they are reaping what they grow. Thyme cake is worth your time. Date night runs from 5:30 - 10 p.m. Choose a worthy companion. 

Posted by Bistro Broad at 8/11/2010 11:43 AM | Add Comment

It's safe to go back to suburbia

    


It all depends on your definition of hip, but while no one was looking the leafy outposts formerly known as lame, are attracting city dwellers from Boston in record numbers. The great thing about running a blog is I don't have to tell you just how many people are flocking to the suburbs. This trend is not quantifiable, rather something I've become increasingly aware of. Take Tom Fosnot for instance. The talented chef left Rocca in swinging SoWa (what?) for the country confines of Gibbet Hill Grill  in Groton a few months ago. In this sliver of Vermont off 495, he's pureeing carrots and sauteing scallops in bucolic bliss. He just moved to Sudbury to minimize the commute. Word is there are fewer strollers to deal with on the sidewalks there then the South End. "I don't know what neighborhood is hip now, but the South End isn't it," a suburban resto owner told me recently.

Over in Andover, Matthew Morello of Spire and the Federalist moved back home to open the only Napa-inspired wine bar this side of Sonoma. Bin 28 Wine Bar on Elm Square is a beautifully turned out restaurant with a stable of Enomatics ready to pour the perfect glass. It's frustrating that their website is still under construction, but they assure me they are popping corks right now. 


By far one of the best urban transplants is The Biltmore in Newton. Exciting and fun food comes out of this creative kitchen until the wee small hours. The off-beat tavern filled with homespun tchotchkes is hidden in the sleepy Upper Falls village. But chef/owner Jason Owens (above) has been sending consistent signals for two years that hipdom can be found in this forgotten hamlet. He's got the devil-may-care attitude of a real artist. Watermelon salad, locally sourced charcuterie with delicate morsels, excellent homemade crackers and mango lobster tacos with guacamole dip (below) were expertly busted out at a recent lunch. 


This is what summer noshing should look like. Word is Owens is sniffing around for a Boston bistro. But Newton got a taste first. Yes Muffy, it's  safe to go back to the suburbs again.   

Posted by Bistro Broad at 8/6/2010 1:55 PM | View Comments (1) | Add Comment

Pop a wheelie

 
I have long loved the combination of dark chocolate and green tea. There's something about the yin of the bitter next to the yang of the astringent that teases out the best of both. Leave it to the choco-mongers at Somerville's Taza Chocolate to marry the two in an edible wheel. To the uninitiated this is Mexican-style stone ground chocolate with the consistency of ground coffee. That may not sound like an endorsement, but the grit of the coarse organic cacao beans with the earthy snap of yerba mate powder is a refreshing remix on the classics.

The result is a nice departure from the Luna and Lara bars that haunt Trader Joe's shelves. Taking nips from this energy chunk imparts relaxation bit by bite. This is a more sophisticated caffeine high java junkies, not an espresso shot to the head. Although I recommend you enjoy it with an iced coffee — we don't want to get too pure here. Slowly, ever so slowly, you are soothed into consciousness. This is all we can ask for an over-the-counter treat. It also alleviates hangovers, I'm told.

I love that candy is made in the former Necco neighborhood and that this wheel is getting me through a season of demanding deadlines and a niggling hangover due to the bacchanalia from the closing of Caffe Paradiso in Lowell last night. Is the entire downtown feelin' it today? Head to Market Street Market and pop a wheelie for immediate RX.


Posted by Bistro Broad at 7/30/2010 12:16 PM | View Comments (1) | Add Comment

Goodbye Restaurant Week, Hello Restaurant Month


Like open studios weekends, held from Swampscott to Southie, the concept of restaurant week is no longer special. Could it be the fix is in on the prix fixe? Doubtful. We are still in staycation mode and not all of us have enough extra scratch to grab sushi in style. I have many foodie friends who are scraping by, but we don't want to eat like we are.


So I was struck with a double dose of frugality and glee to discover that August is restaurant month in the Commonwealth. The Greater Merrimack Valley's Restaurant Showcase Week runs from August 1- 15 and Boston Restaurant Week kicks in August 15- 27. If you can squeak by August, 28 through 30th on leftovers, you're home free. 


Resist the urge to high-tail it out of town and consider the hibachi room at Feng Shui in Chelmsford. This fun and festive Japanese steakhouse is offering dynamite deals on succulent stir-fry studded with angus beef, chicken and vegetables in sizzling sauces. The floor show here is as thrilling as the food. Boston's always-stellar two-week fete looks stronger than ever this year. Dine at the swanky Taj or stylish blue in the city one week and motor over to the scene-y Bokx 109 in Newton for a steakcation on the roof. I'm dying to try the duck salad at Bergamot in Somerville.


Coughing up $20 to $30 for three courses at a restaurant that Zagats has frustratingly underscored as out of your league ($$$), is nothing to sneeze at. Open Table is accepting reservations for the Boston bash now. Long live the prix fixe!

Posted by Bistro Broad at 7/15/2010 4:43 PM | View Comments (2) | Add Comment

Where have you bin?

Bin 28 is on Route 28, they have 28 wines and will open in less than 28 days.

Owner Matthew Morello, former chef of Spire and TheFederalist in Boston, grew up in Andover. The prodigal son has returned to bring Napa style to Tweedville. Five Enomatics keep the wine perfectly aerated with argon gas. This means if you shell out $10 (don’t know what the prices will be) for a glass you are getting quality vins, not dreck from a bottle that was opened last Tuesday. Cheese and dessert will be served until 11 p.m. Are the suburbs getting hip? 


 

SeemsCaffe Paradiso in Lowell is not long for this world. The doors are expected toshut on the late-night trattoria July 31. This will certainly change the alfresco scene in DTL, as the corner of Palmer and Middle streets is the closestthing we have to Rome. And Paradiso (for all its faults) created the Euro feewhen it opened in early 2000. Fear not, Cobblestones, up the road, is about toopen a new patio in the shadow of CIty Hall.

 

Is it me or is the food at this 16 year-oldstandby improving? I had a delish mesclun salad with chicken, strawberries andan invigorating (pineapple?) dressing there this week. And the calamari thatwent around the table was so good, I wished I didn't have to share. Speaking ofpineapple, the pineapple fried rice at the Blue Taleh is my favorite summerdish. Add chicken for a satisfying meal. Go on Wednesday for a side of jazz. 

 

And onthat note, The Back Page finally opens Lowell Folk Festival weekend, July 23-25, we hear. Don't hold us to it. This is the jazz bar run by Steve of the BlueTaleh's brother Rob. It was slated to open in January, but now it looks likethe LFF is the due date. Music, comedy and tapas from the BT will fill thishipspace along the Pawtucket Canal. We'll wait for it.



Posted by Bistro Broad at 7/1/2010 1:21 PM | View Comments (2) | Add Comment

Getting tiki with it

 
The Sunset Tiki Bar has opened at Nashoba Valley Ski Resort and not a minute too soon. Remember when the suburbs weren't cool? Now a beach, complete with water, a thatched roof bar, clam bakes, torches, live music and all the trappings of a Club Med vacation are a mile off 495 in the region formerly known as The Sticks. The smart marketing department at this family ski mountain, where I learned to snowplow and ride the rope toe, are offering year-round entertainment. When I called yesterday to inquire about this mirage, they were too busy to talk. So far so good. Tonight's lobster bake will have you questioning those day trips to Ogunquit. Just when I hoped the staycation was buried in the summer of '09, Westford has given us a reason to stay put. See ya round the tiki torch!
   

Posted by Bistro Broad at 6/24/2010 10:18 AM | View Comments (4) | Add Comment

Off the Road Coffee house

Seems just yesterday On the Road Coffee House opened in Lowell on Rogers Street. Now the cafe that brewed Rao's Coffee is the newest member of the honored dead. Is it just me, or is making a go of it harder in the Merrimack Valley? Granted this cafe was in a tough spot, hard on Route 38. I've often thought of pulling in, (just this spring I noticed its attractive outdoor cafe), but unlike Newbury, this is not a street you want to cross. It's a thoroughfare only a chain could love. This leads me to my latest and greatest idea — a mobile coffee truck. Would iced coffee on demand work in Lowell?
The Mud Truck  in Manhattan is just about the coolest thing on four wheels. If my Mud Truck had a wifi hotspot, I could bring great coffee and internet to a park near you. There's gotta be VC money out there for this.

 


Speaking of shattered dreams, Stur in Lowell  went the way of the dodo last week and no one was surprised. Except maybe Chef Gary Gianchetti. When I interviewed the co-cowner for Merrimack Valley Magazine a week earlier, he gave zero indication that the place was about to go belly up. In retrospect, the signs were there. It was chaotic in the kitchen, the bar ran out of vodka (vodka?) and all deliveries were COD. Sigh! You don't need a Babson MBA to see this disaster waiting to happen. I sure hope a mega successful business bombardiers into 179 Central Street to shake off the curse. Because I still needed a review, at the last-minute I rocketed up Route 133 to Black Cow in Newburyport. Decent food, staggering view. Need a riverside table this summer? Make the Cow your alfresco headquarters. What's your favorite table with a view? 

Posted by Bistro Broad at 6/15/2010 5:15 PM | View Comments (8) | Add Comment

When coffee breaks, affogato fixes it

 

Trawling Portland yesterday with the rest of the Mainiacs, I came across a welcome sight, Bard Coffee. First off I like this name. Reminds me of literature and my favorite beverage. Its location, kitty (or is it catty?) corner from Starbucks is genius. This one-year-old indie coffee shop has chutzpah and incredible lattes to match. But what caught my eye was the gelato chillin' in the front case. Noir chocolate, as black as the winter sky, tasted like chocolate syrup, brownies and fudgsicles frozen into one. No dairy here, this one's for the addicts. While decadent by the spoonful, a whole dish would send you to Maine Medical. Happily tasting my way through the case, the barista asked if I wanted a scoop over espresso. Hello! Meet the affogato -- a savior in the wilderness. This drowned gelato pinch-hits for breakfast in the Old Country. "It's got coffee, ice cream and plenty of pick up," the owner said. 
Sure does.
No wonder Portlanders sailed through winter 2010 SAD-free. I paired mine with mint chocolate chip gelato, which took the edge off the oft-bitter shots of love. Hazelnut would be another divine option. Like all good parings, the affogato (drowned in Italian) is only as tasty as its parts. Gelato from Gelato Fiasco  in Brunswick, Maine, and single-sourced coffee from PC port 'o'calls make for the best breakfast/dessert/drink you will find in the Pine Tree State or any other state. Frappucino, be very afraid.  

Posted by Bistro Broad at 6/1/2010 3:22 PM | Add Comment
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