Tag Cloud

Monthly Archives

Bistro Broad | Create Your Badge

Got a restaurant tip? Email me

bistrobroad@gmail.com

Receive Bistro Broadcast in your inbox



BISTROBROAD.COM

Looking for an Oasis in the storm


On my way to the Oasis Grill in South Lowell for a bite of Brazilian, I noticed something stirring in the old Mickey's Bar and Grill. Poking my head inside the defunct storefront, I learned that Stir busts onto the scene tomorrow (give or take a few days). Yes it's a martini bar and yes the walls no longer scream Shamrock Shake. No menu yet to share, but my first hit tells me Stir is geared towards the post-collegiate crowd. Finally restaurateurs seem to be getting the message: this town can only handle one Blue Shamrock and one El Rincon. But two Oles? Yes, Stir feels like an Ole remake. I reserve further comment until the doors swing open. My trip to the Brazilian churrascaria (rotisserie) was not as swinging as I'd hoped. You've got to bring an appetite to Oasis and perhaps I left mine out on the rain-slicked streets. Bistro Boy thought his beef was very flavorful and the juicy chicken wings made me smile. The lamb was too dry, but we blamed it on the end slice that fell onto our plates from the passadore (meat waiter). Fresh pineapple and numerous rice and bean medleys (all part of the pay-by-weight buffet) tasted clean and perfectly palatable. Watching a waiter remove a skewer of meat from a wall of flames and whack off a few pieces with a large blade is great, cheap theater. The Egalitarian feel of this no-frills joint dovetailed perfectly with our quiet Sunday afternoon mood. But I wished the food transported me a little further South than Spaghettiville. Buffet goers beware: this food becomes a compost pile quickly. Best to return to the buffet multiple times to savor the subtle flavors. Go for a bargain, not to be bowled over.

New lounge to open in Lowell

You asked for it, someone's doing it. A 30-something apps and ambiance lounge is slatted to open on Market Street, where Simba and Dark Intentions once stood, in Downtown Lowell. Savanna Palace boasts gourmet dishes, a two-tiered stage and multiple bars for a mature crowd. Work crews have been demoing the space all winter long and I for one say bring it on. I'm not sure what the 411 is behind the operation, but it's a promising second wind and in "this economy" we'll take it. Perhaps before Savanna comes to town the long-awaited jazz club The Back Page, next to the Blue Taleh, will kick out the jams in Kearney Square. When that happens, coupled with the new re-tooled Mickeys-turned-martini bar on Central Street (anyone know when this is opening?) spring time will be the right time for making whoopee. Who's ready?

 

Fish n' chips for the soul


You don't have to wait til St Patrick's day to tuck into a basket of fried cod and French fries. In fact, with the glorious mayhem around March 17, you are better off going on a fish n' chips safari right now. Nothing ruins a Gaelic grub session quite like an off-key version of the Clancy Brothers rattling through your head and green beer sloshing at your toes. My favorite fish n' chips experience was not in Kilkenny, Killarney, or any other "Kil" town, but at the always festive Peddlers Daughter in Nashua, N.H. I can taste it now — golden fried white fish and tasty chips served with homemade ketchup. Yes, I buried the lede. The ketchup accompanying this piping hot duo (served in a newspaper I might add) is so tangy, so fresh, one wonders why more resto pubs don't take this additional step. Ketchup that actually tastes like ripe tomatoes blows tartar sauce off the bar. Not sure tartar is traditionally served with this dish anyhow. An ample dose of malt vinegar adds to the all-important moisture quotient of this feed, but you don't always see it. A sign of a real Irish pub is one that carries an array of malts. Another good chipper is in Ayer (yes that's in Massachusetts, over the Shirley line) at JP O'Hanlons. I also suspect (and I don't know why) great fish n' chips can be caught in Rhode Island and Gloucester. I could use some recommendations to improve my list. Where do you go to get your fish n' chips on?

Great Plates still feels good

We are three days into Great Plates and I am raring to go. I tweeted about the hot chocolate that Centro is featuring for its dessert course yesterday and yapped about La Boniche's menu on WCAP's "Dining with Deano," but forgot to protect my base. Sorry fellow foodies. Without further ado here is the rundown on GP. It's a two week eating spree offering a prixe fixe menu for lunch and dinner starting at $7 and cruising on up to $33. No big surprises this year: Cobblestones, Caffe Paradiso, Ricardos, Centro, Olympia, La Boniche, Athenian Corner, Mambo Grill are all back for more. Where's the Old Court? There is some new blood this year: Mama Lia's,  Dharma Buns and Ole. Big ups for Lowell Beer Works for making the scene. The big questions (someone posited last night ) is the deafening absence of some fave DTL joints: Blue Taleh, Cavaleiros and Estogo. Where are you guys? Too costly I presume. But really it can't be more than a $150 to toss your name into the ring. Would be nice if some ethnic restos opted in. The long-forgotten Oasis or the still new to the game Tabocas.  I'm thinking Viet Thai and Pho Da Lat would be nice additions too. One wonders if these establishments were even approached. Not complaining, just saying! Check out the menus here and plan your attack. Return and give us a review too. We love that kinda stuff.

Why Moonstones Shines



Let me count the ways. First there's the new chef. I say "new" even though Enx has been on the scene at the Chelmsford hot spot since the fall, because the talented man in white just busted out his first menu. And what a beauty it is. First off,  pork bellies. Normally I wouldn't go near something that sounds (and let's face it looks) like a slab of bacon got into a fight with a deep fryer. But in the capable hands of this hot Hawaiian, who learned his tricks from Roy Yamaguchi, the pig is pure pleasure.

And you can always hit the gym tomorrow. I did after a foray with this trendy tapas, and actually lost a pound. What? But it's not just the pulled pork center and pineapple look of this appetizer that got me into a tropical mood. It was the avocado risotto. Creamy, green, delicious. Also, it must be said, this man does something with a tomato that shouldn't be legal. I found out later he marinates the fruit in fish sauce, ginger, garlic and onion. So simple. Gives the dish a bountiful burst of sunshine.

Homemade wontons have replaced the bread sticks (and peanuts) at this former Ground Round on Route 110.  Carb purists may scream anathema, but we found the alt-take on bread and butter quite refreshing. They arrive warm, slightly salty, not too greasy, with a tangy, slightly kicky aioli sauce. Are we still in Chelmsford? Another new and exciting addition to the Moonstones menu is a sizzling ahi sashimi, which creates a stir (and a smell) when torched. I like a little sizzle on the menu, gives a restaurant a pulse.  Didn't luxuriate with a cocktail, although I'm craving one now, because it was mid-day. But the uber cool lounge-y bar screams for something shaken, stirred and strong. There's  a new creative cocktail every month. Bop in now for a Skittles over easy.

Happy Fat Tuesday





Check the calendar all ye pagans, today's the day to pig out.  I used my Mardi Gras license all weekend to do just that on The Cape (thanks Napi's) and I suspect  you did too. However  if you practice Lent (or even if you don't), you'll want to get your last licks in today. Soooo where is the best place to go hog wild? I'm looking for some tips, but I'll start us off by pointing you in the delicious direction of Five Bites Cupcakes.

I'm always on the hunt for new bakeries and cupcake shops. And while it seems Lowell will never get its own cupcakery, I look to my hometown of Wellesley for inspiration. I had Five Bite Cupcakes for my birthday recently and (even though they are transfat free)
they were a delightful diversion to childhood. Opened in December, this sinful shop specializes in red velvet, carrot, double chocolate and something called the sno-cone. They also make gluten-free cupcakes on Thursdays and Fridays.

While you are in the land of the Lexus, you may as well detour into The Gelato Cafe for a macchiato to wash it down and a pint of blue vanilla to go. Relax you have the rest of winter to fast. Where are you getting your hog on today?



Blond on Blond


Ferns in Carlisle opened a beer and wine shop in November — when this dry town made the sensible choice to reverse the curse. Since then the annex to the Vermont-ish country store has been suburban Boston's best kept secret. No more! Find your way to this friendly spot for deliciously obscure ales like Pretty Things out of Cambridge, stellar wines and champagnes (lots of high-end stuff) and the random beer you had on that ski trip to Maine that you never thought you'd locks lips with again. Yup, they've got it. Perhaps THE BEST thing about the newly fermented Ferns is their Saturday tastings. This weekend owner Larry Bearfield (I think he should change his name to Beerfield for the time being) and his knowledgeable staff sample a trio of blond ales from Belgium — Hoegaarden Biere Blanche, Leffe Beer and the always smooth character Stella Artois from 4 to 7 p.m. This free tasting is not about tanking up on booze (although a mid-day weekend buzz never killed anyone) it's a great chance to cull some libation ed and get to know the connoisseurs in your midst. Plus Carlisle is so idyllic this time of year. Any other tastings out there?

Soup Bowl recap: Winners, losers and those who judge



I finally emerged from my soup coma. You feel me? If you were at last weekend's Soup Bowl Competition at Lowell Winterfest you do. There were some great soups — Mambo Grill, Cobblestones, Egg Roll Cafe, Centro and Ricardos, take a bow. But only one winner. I was a judge this year and found it harder than getting out of Lowell at 5 p.m. on a Monday to select a single soup for culinary excellence. Ahhh, but someone had to do it. 

Like a wine tasting, several entries got the shaft immediately. Not naming names here, but it was easy to eliminate. Congrats to Lowell High School Hospitality Academy and their gorgeous scallop, corn, sweet potato chowder with applewood smoked bacon! Co-Judges Augusto Gabriel and Garrett and Nicole Thurston, all of Lowell, made this resto responsibility fun. I even snuck in my pocket cam to capture the painstaking process that goes into picking Lowell's top soups in low-def. See video here

The high school's cooking program, under the expert tutelage of Kevin McGuire, was the big winner. You may remember McGuire as the former chef of Ricardos, the trattoria that nabbed third place for its Italian Divorce Soup (people's choice).  A big day for Kev overall. But it was Cobblestone's creamy, buttery and briney clam chowder that Joe public named the bomb. Well deserved, or as the English would say "rightly so."

Things turned geeky in the inner circle when the male judges got into fisticuffs over the nuances between bisque and chowder (something to do with cream), but that's what we are here for. As I made my rounds in the Masonic Temple Saturday I was struck by the many great establishment turning out stellar soups. So what if hospitals and institutions are encroaching on this event? As Augusto pointed out soup is supposed to be medicinal. Let the healing begin. What was your favorite weekend remedy?


Do the banh mi

 There are two kinds of foodies -- those who eat anything at anytime and the ones who pretend to be into "all kinds of stuff" but secretly draw the line at squid ink. Peeshaw. Childsplay. I met with the hardest core of the bunch yesterday, Y Sok Woodward. The chef/owner of Rebel Caterers in Lowell took me to Hong Cuc on Dutton Street for "The Sandwich." This Vietnamese classic called banh mi is made with four different kinds of meat (headcheese among them). Let's clear this up right now, I don't know what's in this mystery meat (actually I think it's pig's ears) and I don't want to know. And you shouldn't either if you want to get behind this sandwich. 
I love the way the flavors and textures coagulate. The crunchy French roll is the closest thing to a baguette I've found in the 978. See those vegetables in the middle? They've been pickled to zesty perfection. Pork, chicken, ham and headcheese (there it is again) are layered on top of a pate and mayo spread -- a genius combo. Cilantro is thrown in for good measure and thank God for that. The herb brings a clean flavor to this ethnic creation. You'll feel like Anthony Bourdain eating the banh mi on the streets of Vietnam. Just don't scrutinize the ingredients and you'll love it. Can you do that? By the way it's a mere $2.50. You've got nothing to lose. 

Punk rock winemaker on the loose



I've met my share of bitches, but never a so-called "zin bitch." And never one that looked like Chris Tietje. The bald, inked winemaker of Four Vines in Paso Robles, California turns grapes into righteous juice as Sid Vicious screams about anarchy. Hey, somebody's got to do it. He describes most of his biker-inspired wines as "majorly freaky." Have you ever tried a freaky wine? I did today at the Four Vines table at the Boston Wine Expo and by freaky he means full-bodied and hard as sin. This chef-turned wine maker, who spent summers frying fish in Ogunquit, brings an alternative energy to this labor-intensive craft. With a steely off-beat spirit, he makes wine fun again. The Four Vines Freakshow line (including Heretic made with 100 percent petite syrah pictured above) is a series of headbangers that are bold, powerful and will never be relagated to opening act status. If you ever see these guys at a wine festival ask to see what's under the table. With his private stock he will salute you. Before heading back to the Central Coast, where some of California's best juice is being made today (see Peachy Canyon and Justin ) Tietje visits the Spirited Gourmet Wednesday from 5 to 7 in Winchester. Stop by to try some ass-kicking wine and learn from a guy who won't be wearing a crewneck sweater and smelling of Old Spice.