I've met my share of bitches, but never a so-called "zin bitch." And never one that looked like Chris Tietje. The bald, inked winemaker of Four Vines in Paso Robles, California turns grapes into righteous juice as Sid Vicious screams about anarchy. Hey, somebody's got to do it. He describes most of his biker-inspired wines as "majorly freaky." Have you ever tried a freaky wine? I did today at the Four Vines table at the Boston Wine Expo and by freaky he means full-bodied and hard as sin. This chef-turned wine maker, who spent summers frying fish in Ogunquit, brings an alternative energy to this labor-intensive craft. With a steely off-beat spirit, he makes wine fun again. The Four Vines Freakshow line (including Heretic made with 100 percent petite syrah pictured above) is a series of headbangers that are bold, powerful and will never be relagated to opening act status. If you ever see these guys at a wine festival ask to see what's under the table. With his private stock he will salute you. Before heading back to the Central Coast, where some of California's best juice is being made today (see Peachy Canyon and Justin ) Tietje visits the Spirited Gourmet Wednesday from 5 to 7 in Winchester. Stop by to try some ass-kicking wine and learn from a guy who won't be wearing a crewneck sweater and smelling of Old Spice.