Looking for an Oasis in the storm

On my way to the Oasis Grill in South Lowell for a bite of Brazilian, I noticed something stirring in the old Mickey's Bar and Grill. Poking my head inside the defunct storefront, I learned that Stir busts onto the scene tomorrow (give or take a few days). Yes it's a martini bar and yes the walls no longer scream Shamrock Shake. No menu yet to share, but my first hit tells me Stir is geared towards the post-collegiate crowd. Finally restaurateurs seem to be getting the message: this town can only handle one Blue Shamrock and one El Rincon. But two Oles? Yes, Stir feels like an Ole remake. I reserve further comment until the doors swing open. My trip to the Brazilian churrascaria (rotisserie) was not as swinging as I'd hoped. You've got to bring an appetite to Oasis and perhaps I left mine out on the rain-slicked streets. Bistro Boy thought his beef was very flavorful and the juicy chicken wings made me smile. The lamb was too dry, but we blamed it on the end slice that fell onto our plates from the passadore (meat waiter). Fresh pineapple and numerous rice and bean medleys (all part of the pay-by-weight buffet) tasted clean and perfectly palatable. Watching a waiter remove a skewer of meat from a wall of flames and whack off a few pieces with a large blade is great, cheap theater. The Egalitarian feel of this no-frills joint dovetailed perfectly with our quiet Sunday afternoon mood. But I wished the food transported me a little further South than Spaghettiville. Buffet goers beware: this food becomes a compost pile quickly. Best to return to the buffet multiple times to savor the subtle flavors. Go for a bargain, not to be bowled over.

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